LEJOG Day 66: Innerleithen to Peebles

Weather: Warm and sunny

Distance covered today: 14.8km (9.2mi)

Last night's B&B: St Ronan's Hotel (£37.50)

Cumulative distance: 1314.4km (816.7mi)/ % Complete: 68.7%

GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 66 (click!)

The good weather today was just right for walking!  Initially, I didn’t make much progress to my destination, starting the day by heading south. As usual I was trying to avoid an A-road, in fact the same A-road as I was shadowing yesterday, by reverting to my little back-road. This is my fourth day of walking beside the Tweed River in Tweeddale. I had no idea the valley was so extensive, or, for that matter so difficult to get out of!

By chance, I came across Traquair House, which advertised itself as the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, visited by 27 kings. The Stuarts of Traquair supported Mary, Queen of Scots through thick and thin. I am beginning to understand just how important a figure she is in these parts. I made a little detour to have a look, but decided it was bit too commercialised for my taste, so I chose not to go inside. Afterwards as I was making my way through the extensive gardens to the exit, I wondered if I had made the right choice.  I had plenty of time because today’s walk was again quite short as a result of the geography of the valley (i.e. too far to the next town). That got me to thinking about all the choices I have been making over my journey, and as is my way, that got me to thinking about the impact of all my choices over the years!

I have previously gone on about the amazing coincidences and chance encounters which have led to our existence, or indeed to our current circumstances. Some of these are way beyond our control. Others are simple choices that we make, often totally oblivious of the implications. For very obvious reasons on the open internet, I have chosen to keep my family as anonymous as possible and have purposefully chosen not to talk about my two, lovely daughters, both to avoid embarrassing them, but more importantly to protect their privacy.

But of course their very existence is a matter of the tiniest of chances; the product of an almost infinite number of very unlikely events.  Of course, the vast majority of these chance events are absolutely beyond human control, but equally some do depend on human choice, and of course, on my choices. One of my more pivotal choices took place in a field in Wales!  I wrote previously about my experience in the UK as a graduate, coming to terms with the real world.  This event took place during that period.

In those days hitch-hiking was a legitimate way of getting around and I found myself on the edge of a Welsh town, on the edge of a large field on a B-road, hitching a lift. It was raining, I was feeling a little sorry for myself and every single vehicle that passed me, ignored me. I noticed activity in the adjoining field and it soon became clear that the circus was coming!  Over a couple of hours all the lorries and caravans arrived and there was much activity around erecting tents and generally organising the circus. All this time, no passing vehicle offered me a lift, and down came the rain. Eventually, some of the circus personnel noticed my continuing presence and came over to chat. I told them I was unemployed, directionless and miserable. They suggested I join the circus!

I had to think about this! It was, in those uncertain circumstances, an option! They told me they would have to talk to the Ringmaster, and he wasn’t immediately available, but would soon be back. The more I thought about it, the more it seemed an attractive option! It would be a stable but itinerant community; a genuine and legitimate activity devoid of the intellectualism and privilege of my rather fortunate background. The more I thought about it, the more it attracted me. I had no skills, but they insisted that was how they all started. They argued that the combination of physical effort and mental control would lead to a better place. I was, though aware that I possessed little physical coordination and not much strength. What to do? What to do?

As I wrestled with my decision, I was told by one of my new acquaintances that the Ringmaster had returned, that he had confirmed there was a vacancy and he was coming to see me. In due course, I was informed he was on his way. I saw him approaching across the field. At that moment, I heard the drone and grind of a heavy truck approaching. I stuck my thumb out, almost as an unconscious gesture.  To my immense surprise, the truck stopped and the driver offered me a lift! I looked across the field and saw the Ringmaster approaching. I had to make a decision!!

I have often considered why in that moment I chose the lift. Was it because the truck offered me a way back to my conventional reality? Was it because in that instance, I was confronted by someone eye-to-eye and I took the easy option, implying that I would have chosen the circus if the Ringmaster had arrived first?

I do know that if I had chosen the circus, I would never have met Veronica, and my daughters would never have existed.  Such is chance!  Veronica too will have made innumerable choices any of which might have prevented her from meeting me. And if one just applies that logic over a few generations, let alone over the time of life on Earth, it becomes clear that the probability of our individual existence is infinitesimally small.

Still, I’m fairly certain that my choosing not to enter Traquair House is unlikely to have any far-reaching. let alone existential consequences, though you never know…… 

The rather quaint St Ronan's Hotel in Innerleithen

The imposing lodge at the gate to Traquair House

Looking down towards the house

The walled garden

Traquair House, the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, visited by 27 kings!

Looking back at Innerleithen in the sunshine. I had managed to walk around it almost in a semi-circle

Back to my friend, the River Tweed in Tweeddale

Orchids of some kind?

Another dog-rose for Veronica

The Miller's House next to an old mill

My little back road was putting on weight! It eventually became a busy B-road, but was still very pleasant to walk along. Unfortunately, I inadvertantly switched off my GPS at Traquair House and only realised this further along the route. I have adjusted the statistics accordingly

This sign confused me! Am I in danger, or are they? In the event, I came through unscathed and though I did see a couple of unidentified flying predators in the distance, they seemed supremely untroubled!