LEJOG Day 70: Linlithgow to Falkirk

Weather: Cloudy and warm with fresh westerly

Distance covered today: 12.3km (7.6mi)

Last night's B&B: Aran House (£35)

Cumulative distance: 1403.6km (872.2mi)/ % Complete: 73.4%

GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 70 (click!)

After yesterday’s hectic chase, things today were much quieter. Falkirk was just a short stretch down the Union Canal and I made it by lunch-time, allowing me the opportunity to go in search of the Antonine Wall, the most northerly of the permanent, defensive structures erected by the Romans. It was erected on the orders of Antonius Pius who apparently wanted to outdo Hadrian, but it hardly survived his death as the Romans started withdrawing southwards and the Roman Empire began its long decline. I found some of it in the grounds of Callendar House, which happened also to have an exhibition on the Wall on show at the time. The wall itself no longer exists and at Callendar House, all that remains is the ditch the Romans dug on the northern side of the wall. The construction looked much like Offa’s efforts with his dykes far to the South, but it was interesting nevertheless to see what remains.  I have thought a lot about the Roman Legionaries as I marched all the way up here from Hadrian’s Wall, often on Roman Roads such as Dere Street. They must have wondered what on earth they were doing here?

The thing that really interested me today was the continuing phenomenon of the Union Canal. In two days of walking, a distance of just less than 30miles (50km), along a magnificently restored canal in peak condition, I saw precisely two narrow-boats! One of them was not even a genuine narrow-boat, just a tub offering café-style luncheons on board to the elderly. We’re talking peak season here! It’s the end of June, the midges haven’t arrived (or at least they haven’t arrived here), and there’s nobody on the canals. And yet millions must have been spent on restoring this canal. I saw new bridges constructed to elevate roads over the canal, and beautifully preserved aqueducts. I haven’t yet even reached the Falkirk Wheel, of which, more tomorrow. It wouldn’t take much of an accountant to work out the real cost of the lone narrow-boat holiday that I saw on the canal. If its recipients had been asked to pay it, they might have preferred to take a commercial space flight instead and saved some money on the side! I can only speculate whether the planners got their demand forecasts wrong, or whether they believe things will pick up in time. It’s a fact that a number of cyclists and walkers were using the tow-path, though I’m sure there are far cheaper ways of establishing cycle-paths, such as the ubiquitous disused railway-lines. Either way, I was the grateful recipient of the tax-payers largesse and it certainly made for pleasant walking.

As I approached Falkirk, things became increasingly urban, and I passed between one of Her Majesty’s Institution’s for Young Offenders and a giant 24hr Tesco, sure signs that my sojourn in outer space was ending with a jolt. I passed cemeteries and used car garages, junk yards and small holdings, and of course the huge oil refinery, chemical plants and industrial complexes of Grangemouth, just beyond Falkirk. There were also plenty of housing estates, all in seemingly very good condition. Again, it’s too early to judge, but my first impression is that economic circumstances north of the border aren’t as bad as I had been led to expect. Although I am aware that this isn’t yet Glasgow, I am beginning to think that there is a stark contrast with the industrial wasteland of Avonmouth which so depressed me earlier in my journey. By a curious coincidence, the river which flows through Grangemouth is also called the River Avon. I didn’t know there were two of them!

To get into Falkirk via Callendar House and the surrounding Callendar Wood, I had to be a little adventurous, using unclear paths and some guesswork based on my increasing understanding of how they do things here in Scotland. It involved amongst other things, using a river tunnel under a railway line, where I anticipated there would be a ledge along one edge which would allow me to get through without wading! I was right, which was lucky as I would otherwise have faced a significant detour.

I am becoming increasingly confident in these decisions but as I strolled through Callendar Wood, I reflected on a situation where I was anything but confident. It happened many years ago on a business trip to Japan. At the time, I was visiting a number of marine engine manufacturers to discuss a new sort of fuel that we were introducing to the marine market. This involved going to some of Japan’s most industrialised cities, where there were few tourist facilities and certainly a complete absence of any signage in western script. I was being looked after by a Japanese minder who could speak a little English, but who was playing a very passive role. As I wandered down a street through the centre of a substantial city, I suddenly realised that I had lost him. I don’t know which of us wasn’t paying attention, but one minute he was there and the next, gone!
 
At first I wasn’t too concerned, but as I looked around, I realised I couldn’t understand a thing. I had no idea what a police-station looked like. I stopped some people to try to talk to them, but they couldn’t of course speak any English and were either irritated or alarmed by this foreigner trying to gain their attention. I realised I wouldn’t even be able to find my way to a station, let alone buy a ticket and how on earth would I guess where the train was going? I wandered round in a daze, wondering what to do. The only plan I could think of was to stage a fit and fall to the ground frothing at the mouth! That would surely attract the authorities and at least I would have a bed for the night! Before I could put my plan into action, my minder reappeared, looking flustered and embarrassed and all was well!  He had probably picked up the news that there was a mad foreigner up the way, trying to accost passers-by!  Neither of us took our eyes off each other for the remainder of the trip!

I remember a number of further incidents and embarrassments from my Japanese experiences, but more of those later. For the present, I am just revelling being in a foreign country, where they speak a form of English, (though it must be said, the closer I get to Glasgow, the more I have to concentrate!)  Perhaps it’s the refinery down the road, but I do feel at home! At the same time, away, on an unusual business trip. Strange feeling!

There were some benefits to walking back to the B&B in the late evening: stunning colour!

And stunning sunsets!

A new bridge over the canal; beautiful in a modern way, but is it worth it?

Another angular and attractive new bridge. The same design, but the same question??? What is the economic justification?

Industrial Grangemouth! It may not be pretty, but those are valuable jobs. Will they last?

At last, some youngsters using the canal, but do they pay for it?

At Her Majesty's pleasure, for young offenders. It looked forbidding and there were plenty of CCTV cameras. I snuck a picture anyway and wondered whether the plod would come calling, but no!

My path off the beaten track towards Callendar Wood

Callendar Wood

Callendar House

The ditch at the Antonine Wall

The first tenements of my Scottish experience. They seem to me like people cupboards. Store them inside and hope they stay there....