LEJOG Day 72: Kilsyth to Milngavie

Weather: Partly sunny and warm

Distance covered today: 26.0km (16.2mi)

Last night's B&B: Coachman Hotel (£58.5)

Cumulative distance: 1452.3km (902.4mi)/ % Complete: 75.9%

GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 72 (click!)

After a brief but unremarkable stay in the town of Kilsyth at an expensive and rather indifferent hotel, my journey along the Forth and Clyde Canal continued. It was a bright, sunny morning and the canal path was reasonably busy with runners and riders (cyclists), dog walkers and old men out for a stroll. As I have now come to expect, the sunshine magically improves the mood in these parts, if not the length of conversation. But I was accosted by one fellow who immediately wanted to know if I was “doing the big one?” I said I was and he told me that lots of us nutters converge on Milngavie (pronounced mill-guy) heading for the West Highland Way and then to John O’Groats. I do find it interesting that there is this funnelling effect. In the early part of my journey, I couldn’t find a single long-distance walker, let alone a LEJOGer, and people I met thought I was an exotic psychotic, but as the distance to JOG has decreased, so the frequency of walkers, and knowledge about the challenge have increased. In some ways it is comforting to be part of the crowd.

There may have been people on the towpath, but the canal continued splendidly unused. I did meet one small cruiser which intrigued me as it reported on its stern its port of origin as Wiesbaden, Germany. We passed each other on two further occasions at which point I could contain myself no longer, and I asked the skipper how on Earth he had managed to make it across the North Sea in such a small craft. He roared with laughter and told me in excellent English that he had had the boat transported across by ferry. He said the Anja III was making its way up to Inverness, so it is quite possible our paths will cross again on the Great Glen Way. I was, though depressed to find that of the two boats I saw on the lovely Forth and Clyde today, one had come all the way from Germany and the other was a charity vessel taking disabled, elderly people for a cruise.

As I finally left the canal after almost 80km (50mi) of more or less continuous walking, I had rather mixed emotions about leaving it. On the one hand I felt that I have been rather beastly about it, going on and on about its economic shortcomings. On the other hand, the canal itself is really a very beautiful, natural corridor of flora and fauna, and its wonderful condition is a hugely positive asset. Along the entire length of my walk from the outskirts of Edinburgh to the outskirts of Glasgow, I don’t think there was a single moment when there wasn’t a lovely display of colour from all the wild flowers on the banks. And the fact that nobody is using it was hardly a disadvantage for me on my travels!

As I left the canal for the last time, I decided that there must be a wonderful opportunity for some far-sighted entrepreneur with lots of capital. The rejuvenation of the canal with all its modern bridges and the Falkirk Wheel itself means that it is no longer the traditional waterway with the narrow-boats and traditions of the English waterways. Here is an opportunity for a tasteful, futuristic canal experience. Imagine a sleek and beautiful cruiser, possibly powered by electric motors (after all, carrying lots of batteries wouldn’t be a problem and charging at canal-side moorings overnight would be simple enough). The boats would have crystal-clear, curved, rain-resistant canopies to see out of and even transparent bottom sections to view fish and other aquatic life beneath the surface. The cabins would have every mod-con and (of course!) high-speed internet connections (amongst other things, to find interesting places and high-class eateries to visit along the way). Bicycles on board would be included in the rental. At each end of the canal (in Edinburgh and Glasgow) there would be options to attend some of the amazing arts opportunities available in this country, and for those less high-brow, tickets to some typically Scottish sporting events. The marketing would aim at those affluent individuals who usually holiday abroad in exotic locations and who have more than average disposable income, but who are increasingly influenced by green issues and who will appreciate the glorious flora and fauna of this land.

Imagine a situation where the state has already spent a fortune developing the infrastructure for you, where the environment is really incomparably beautiful and where almost nobody is using it! It would seem to be an entrepreneur’s dream! If only Donald Trump had thought along these lines rather than reaching for the tired, old idea of developing yet another links golf-course on pristine, coastal, Scottish land. But then again, does he have the necessary taste? He is though fabulously wealthy, presumably because he learned early on to avoid the scatter-brained ideas of people like this wild-eyed LEJOGer!

So much for the canal!  Now my mind is turning to the next phase of my journey, the West Highland Way which starts immediately beyond Milngavie. This is probably as good a time as any to take stock of my condition and the prospect ahead. Yet again, I am leaving the freedom and excitement of being able to plot my own course across the landscape, while subjecting myself to the relative security and order of a national trail. I expect that I will be travelling through even more beautiful countryside than the canal, but the physical demands will be greater. On that score, I am pleased to report that apart from one continually traumatised little toe, all other physical bits and pieces are working well. In fact, I am feeling very well indeed! As I strutted along the towpath this morning, I had the sensation that I hadn’t felt in better physical shape for very many years! Sure there are bits and pieces that don’t work so well any more, but that hasn’t changed, and I have learned to manage. The important thing is that I feel physically capable of the increased daily distances and demands of the Highlands. When I was approaching the Pennine Way, I was apprehensive and concerned about my ability to cope. Now I feel more optimistic. Is that just bravado? Time will tell!

I do believe though that I should expect less access to the internet. It is an amazing detail of this journey that I have been able to post to the blog at every single stop along the way, completely contrary to all my expectations! I bet that even a couple of years ago that would not have been possible. Sometimes I have just been lucky and I am still convinced that as I reach ever more lonely latitudes, that luck will run out. If it does, I will still prepare a post and simply do the posting when I next get the opportunity. I’ve started, so I’d better finish!!

A gorgeous, public flower display in Kilsyth

This canal is apparently one of the best locations for swans in the UK

A "Walkers are Welcome Town": I haven't been welcomed by my activity before!

The Anja III from Wiesbaden, Germany, en route to Glasgow, Fort William and then Inverness. Will our paths cross again?

An almost empty yacht harbour outside Kirkintilloch. All the infrastructure is there! To be fair, there were a few boats on the other side

Futuristic bridge engineering over the canal

The same bridge from the other side. Beautiful!

The canal meandering peacefully through the countryside

Gorgeous waterside flora and plenty of insects

A frog's paradise! Acres of water-lilies

A last long view as I prepare sadly to leave the canal

Me at the point of our separation. I don't look as sad as I felt. I then got lost on a golf course! Hard to do, you might think, but my navigational skills had obviously rusted on the canal!

A dovecote on the offending golf course

I have been most impressed at the new housing stock that I have seen around Scotland. I appreciate that I am on the rich side of Glasgow, but even so!

Some of the architecture is futuristic and daring. Though this sort of thing is most unusual in the UK, it works for me!

A small, up-market housing estate. New, solid and prosperous. So unexpected!

Back in the countryside. The colours are turning as high summer approaches

I was amazed to find myself outside the Glasgow Rangers' Football Academy, a world-famous institution!!

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