| Weather: Sunny with a cool breeze |
| Distance covered today: 22.0km ( 13.4 mi) |
| Last night's B&B: Little Pengelley (£40) |
| % Complete: 4.0% |
| GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 4 |
Yesterday was a rest day and, to be honest, I felt a little foolish taking a rest-day after only 3 days of walking! But, when Veronica and I had initially discussed it, we decided that it would be better for me to work up to a normal schedule and avoid the risk of an early injury that might jeopardise the whole enterprise.
In the event I was delighted that I did! For a start, I chanced on a perfectly charming B&B, and was hosted by Robert and Maxine in wonderful style and great comfort for the two nights! Robert went to great lengths to make me feel comfortable, even to the point of installing a wifi repeater so that I had a 5-star connection in my bedroom. He introduced me to his very diverse group of local friends, who seem to have many things in common, especially a rather profound affection for a good pint! Also, completely off his own bat, he invited me to accompany him to Porthlevin where he was maintaining his authentic Cornish fishing boat. I wouldn’t otherwise have got there, and I’m very pleased I did. I have specifically designed my route to avoid the South West Coastal Path, which I intend to cover at some future time, but it did seem a pity that I wouldn’t see some of the gems of the Cornish coast, and Porthlevin certainly is that.
When I took my leave of Robert and his friends in the pub last night, narrowly avoiding the point of no return because I was concerned about today’s extended walk, the entire Friday evening clientele wished me well on my way. I shook literally everybody’s hand. I’d only been there 24 hours! Robert told me this morning that he needed a lift to collect his car from the pub. I’m sure he wasn’t alone. I clearly only just escaped!
My route today took me south of Redruth through an area of industrial archaeology, or more precisely, the ruins of the tin and copper mines that populate the area around Camborne and Redruth. I was taken aback by the sheer scale of the ruins of these old mines and smelters. I hadn’t realised they would dominate the landscape to the extent they do. And the influence seems to persist to the present day. As I sit here, I can see an advertisement inviting people to attend a lecture on two very famous mines, Wheal Jane and South Crofty. There is even talk of South Crofty opening again given the level of raw material prices at present. But it is hard to imagine that any industry will dominate this place in the way that mining did, ever again. It must be strange to live amongst preserved industrial ruins. I was fascinated to discover it has been designated a UNESCO World heritage site. What a contrast with the Kogelberg! One area bemoans the passing of an age and the other fears the depredations of the future.
When I started thinking about this journey, I suspected it would be as much internal as external. I notice that so far it has been pretty much entirely external. No excuses for that, because I have been so bowled over by the people and sights that I have experienced so far, that I haven’t had time to think about much else, or not coherently anyway. I’m sure that will gradually change. As the routine sets in and as days fuse into each other, I suspect that whether I like it or not, I will be swept along on the internal tide. For the time being, everything is so new and so strange. I am also very interested in how these old bones are coping with it all. There hasn’t yet been time for quiet contemplation.
No doubt that time will come. We shall see….
Porthleven beach
Fishermens' cottages in Porthleven
Opposing wills... And the kids are amused. But which is the caricature??
The lovely Little Pengelley
A shortcut through Crenver Grove, a magnificent ancient forest
Industrial archeology all over the landscape
I could have taken dozens of these pictures. The scale and the detail is amazing
GO AWAY! You don't belong here!
Even the yobs have a sense of civic duty here! Though their spelling needs improvement!
Fields of unpicked commercial daffodils. Not enough demand to justify the expense of picking them. (Perhaps I should have bought Veronica a few more bunches!!)
No comments:
Post a Comment